Top 7 things to do on a Mysore Trip
- Meena Iyer
- Jan 10, 2018
- 6 min read
Happy New Year to you and yours and wishing you all a year of unexpected adventures and new experiences!
At least that's what I feel 2018 has in store for me. As I'm unfurling into my new life in India, I'm learning that it means endless opportunity for both physical and mental exploration, but only as far as I allow myself to seize those opportunities. Which can be more of a challenge than it may sound, because keeping an open heart and unwavering optimism are a pre-requisite for this journey. The psychology of moving to a new country can be summed up by the change curve: after the initial resistance, reality hits and the inevitable swirling into despair commences, followed by acceptance and rebuilding. Armed with this academic tidbit I am walking into 2018 determined that my Indian experience will not become another typified statistic of the change curve.
Change recently took the form of experiencing the holiday season in my new home, with a new family. There were no ugly holiday jumpers, no snow or incandescent European Christmas lights and no blaring Mariah Carey in the shops or on the radio, but there was still a holiday feel in the cooler air. We decided to make an impromptu trip to Mysore, via the Dhimbam forest and were treated to a visual feast of India's rural landscape, before being surrounded in the majesty of Mysore. With local eateries, gardens, conservation areas and the echoes of grandeur from lingering monuments of royalty; Mysore is a wonderful weekend getaway destination.
I would be amiss however if I did not include this disclaimer: it was the Christmas holiday weekend so Mysore was host to many, many, many, MANY tourists. On Christmas eve the footfall at the Mysore Palace was 34,783 and having been one amongst them, my advice is to avoid Mysore during peak holiday times. This includes the Christmas break, the famous Dasara Festival end of November and school holidays. Instead opt for it on a random (or planned) long weekend, especially if you are within a reasonable driving distance, as the drive in is particularly breathtaking if you are coming from the south. However, if you are one to go with the flow and don't mind a little head-shoulder-elbow-knees and toes action with some strangers than take the plunge at your discretion, but don't say I didn't warn you!
Mysore or Mysuru is the third most populous state in Karnataka and is also known as the cultural capital of the state. The Dasara festival is the one time in the year when the Raja (king) from the palace makes a public appearance in all his regal attire and this year Mysore had barely gotten over its Dasara tourism hangover, before announcing the commencement of the Mysore Winter Festival.
Emphasis for this listicle post is on the word “trip” as we made a few interesting stops on our way into and out of Mysore, so this is a list of my recommendations based on the entire experience of the trip. Now, without further ado:
1. Bull & Bush Resort
If you're road-tripping it from somewhere south of India to Mysore, make the Bull & Bush Resort a vacation from your vacation along the way. The serenity of the natural surroundings and simplicity of the resort make it a quaint experience. Food is rustled up in the kitchen by the friendly staff, we were treated to crispy dosas and a unique offering of pulli upma (tamarind semolina) and coconut raita (yogurt). Sunrise and sunset are not to be missed and taking along a cosy read, a snug blanket and sachets of your favourite tea for a weekend trip, will leave one invigorated to return to even the most mundane 9-to-5 routine. Even after one night, we all certainly felt revived by the fresh air and felt more mindful of the beauteous nature generously hosting us. A priceless element infused into the atmosphere of the resort by the ardent conservationist owner Mr. B. Krishnakumar.
2. Vinayaka Mylari Dosa
A hole in the wall, 100-year old restaurant, that serves a Karnataka special called benne (butter) dosa and nothing but, will certainly not leave you wanting. There are only four tables in the restaurant, with a hovel of a kitchen at the back and if you manage to grab a seat the waiters will barely look at you, let alone take your order. We managed to get there early so missed the typical 40-minute wait to grab a table and as soon as we sat down, fresh, unassuming dosa was slung before us. With a dice-sized square of butter, gently melting on the hot roast crepe, tucking into this beauty is something breakfast dreams are made of. Not quite the savoury crisp of a dosa, but with a delightful caramel crunch on the outside and not quite the fluffy embrace of a pancake, but with a melt-in-your-mouth softness, I have dubbed the Mylari dosa to be the best of both worlds: an unmissable dosa-pancake hybrid!
3. Mysore Palace at Night
During the day or night, Mysore palace is a beautiful sight to behold. Boasting the beauty of the Indo-Saracenic architectural style and this year with the imaginative flower show on display in the palace gardens as part of the Mysore Winter Festival, it should definitely be included in any Mysore tourism trip. However, something special happens at night to the picturesque palace, as 100,000 bulbs are lit turning the palace into an intricately illuminated painting. Think of Harrods in Knightsbridge, London at Christmas time, except ten times better!
4. Gayatri Tiffin Room (GTR) Dosa
Ok so now you're thinking I eat nothing but dosas – totally untrue (except kind of true and #sorrynotsorry). Seriously speaking though GTR dosa packs and punch, again it is a benne dosa with your choice of plain or masala and unlike Vinayaka Mylari they also serve items like idli (steamed rice cake) and bisibelebath (hot lentil rice). It is a no-nonsense restaurant with a clear sign indicating 'no table service', so once again expect a no-frills service and clientele with a first-come, first-serve attitude. The GTR dosa is the next level up from your traditional dosa and comes in a large commercial size, but it is still unapologetically a dosa.
5. Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary
On our return we made a stop at the Ranganathittu bird sanctuary, approximately 19km outside of Mysore. This is a wonderfully maintained conservation effort, that has been a protected bird sanctuary since 1940. Walking through the sanctuary is a delight for any nature lover and they offer boat excursions, where you can see toothsome crocodiles, nonchalantly sunning themselves on the banks or on one of six small islands in the river Cauvery. The islands are packed densely with trees that are home to a wide array of birds and you can witness majestic pelicans displaying the full extent of their wing span as they swoop low to capture fish from the river. The sanctuary has display boards with facts on the various birds you could spot, but for true bird-watching lovers make sure you check their seasonal migration patterns to catch a glimpse of your preferred bird.
6. Brindavan Gardens
When I asked my father-in-law what I could expect at Brindavan Gardens, he told me it was one of the most popular shoot locations for famous love songs for Indian films. Trust me, a complete noob to the Indian film industry, that if you have ever dreamt about running across a picturesque garden to your significant other, to dreamy music à la Bollywood, Brindavan Gardens is the place. With an array of whimsical water fountains, rolling lawns of green grass, overlooked by the romantic Royal Orchid Hotel, it is the ideal location for a picnic or lazy Sunday. In the evening you can catch the cute musical fountain show and enjoy some decent street-style chaat treats being served in the gardens. Err on the side of caution if going during holiday times, it is tourist tetris!
7. 27 Hairpin Bend Drive, Dhimbam Ghats Road
All the views. If you are travelling to Mysore via the Dindigul – Mysuru National Highway 948, than you will be witness to some truly breathtaking views on the Bannari to Dhimbam Ghat Road stretch on an astonishing 27 hairpin bend drive. Ascending or descending, this drive is truly a marvel with incredible views of the surrounding hills and mountains. Not a drive for the faint of heart, or those with road rage, it is a passage used by freight lorries manoeuvring large loads around steep bends, but the pay-off in the view is well worth the heart-rate raising ride. At the end of the 27th hairpin bend you enter the Sathyamangalam Tiger Reserve, which you are prepared for by an array of signs ascending the hairpin incline, designating the area as a wildlife crossing zone. So if you're lucky you might glimpse an elephant, leopard or tiger, but don't do what these guys did: respect your life and be mindful that we are in fact encroaching on the homes of these beautiful creatures with our roads.
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